DK the Nautical Knitter

I finally finished my Secret of the Stole II stole yesterday and was trying to find a good bind off technique that would allow more give in the blocking process than my traditional bind off method would.  So, I went web surfing.  There are so many out there to choose from.  I decided to go with the following "stretchy bind off" that I found here.  I chose option #4 which is amazingly simple and it goes like this:

*k2tog, pass stitch back to non-working needle*, repeat from * until no stitches remain.

Perhaps when things settle down here I can compile some of the other methods into a list for Knitwith.us.  What method do you like to use for binding off your knitting projects?  Does it vary depending on the item being created?

Popularity: 18% [?]

A question came up this week, regarding how you pull your yarn from a wound “cake”? This made me think about the way I do it and why.

I am not an expert on yarn, far from it. But, I figure that yarn is wound on a cone with a certain twist and is meant to be used straight off the cone. This means that when I wind some off on my ball winder, into a “cake”, I create a center pull “cake”.

Hanks of yarn, like the hand dyed varieties are another thing altogether. The lace weight yarn I purchase in large hanks and wind using my swift and ball winder doesn’t indicate which way to wind it. So, after winding them, I end up using these “cakes” of yarn as center pull also.

Having said that, if I was to purchase yarn already wound into “cakes” I would probably pull from the center as well. However, not having wound it myself, I would be slightly nervous about knots and such. Believe it or not, I don’t have but a handful of pre-wound yarn “cakes” in my stash, so I haven’t had to face this issue yet.

Conclusion, even though the “cake” of yarn tends to collapse from the outside, the assurance of no knots or bad spots in my yarn makes me a definite Innie. What are you? Why?

Popularity: 6% [?]

Now that the Secret of the Stole KAL is winding down and members are completing their stoles I thought it would be a good idea to compile a little of the information that I have found regarding the best ways to block a stole, scarf, shawl, or any other knitted item for that matter. Most knitting (pattern) books are conspicuously quiet on this topic, with more of a focus on the patterns and producing a finished product. So turning to the Internet for answers, a quick Google search will produce way too many various excellent results on this subject. I compiled my own list of top blocking tips here from those results and my own experience. Let’s get started.

Blocking Surfaces: Where do I block my item? What type of surface do I need?

There are many creative blocking surfaces these days. The most important things to look for in a blocking surface are:

1. Can pins be attached or stuck into to the surface?
   This is important because the item needs to be stretched out, pinned down, and left to dry. The best way to do this is to use straight pins and push them into the blocking surface.
2. Is the surface large enough for my finished piece when stretched?
   Take into consideration the finished size of the item from the pattern designer. This will give you a rough idea of how much surface area you will need to successfully block your finished item. Obviously, you will need less blocking surface for a pair of socks than a shawl or stole.
3. Is the surface in a place that it can stay for a day or so? Or, will it need to be portable? Do I have somewhere to store the surface when I am finished using it?Here are two of the surfaces that I find the most convenient and useful.

   Foam Insulation -
   If space and storage are not an issue (see below), the most economical surface to use would be the foam insulation board that is sold at virtually all home improvement stores. This board is almost always a pink color, is made of foam and is very light. The pieces are sold in 4 x 8 foot sheets and are very portable, even once the piece is blocked. These boards can be propped up against a wall after the piece is blocked out on them which keeps little hands and paws off. This surface can also be modified, made more portable and storable, by cutting it in squares and taping them together with Gorilla tape, found in the same stores (which is much stronger and more durable than duct tape).

   If you are so inclined, you can attach gingham fabric to your board like Yarn Maven did and have a square surface reference for accuracy of straight edges.

   Interlocking Play Mats -
   This is the surface that I use. These mats are a little more expensive than the insulation and can be found at toy stores and sometimes at the bigger warehouse stores. The foam that these mats are made of is very dense and they last much, much longer than the insulation. I live in a small house and an even smaller boat and the advantage of these mats is that when I need to block an item I can pull them out and “lock” them together in whatever configuration I need to attain the correct sized blocking surface for my item. When I am finished I can “unlock” them and put them away again.

4. Do I really need to purchase a blocking surface?
   No, if you have a bed or mattress, carpeted floor that is clean or that you can lay a sheet out on, or even a trampoline outside on a cloudy, non-freezing, day you can block your knitted item. All of these surfaces require attention to surrounding issues, like little people, animals, and in the case of the trampoline, weather. Additionally, there are several commercially available “blocking boards” out there and it just takes a quick Google search to find them. They can be pricey though and in the end are basically the same as the two more economical alternatives above.

Blocking Tools: What supplies do I need to block my item?

There are very few tools required to block a knitted item.

1. Blocking wires and rods, string and dental floss, which to choose?Blocking wires and rods -
   These two terms seem to be used interchangeably and they are basically stainless steel rods (or spools of wire) that are about .030″ in thickness are very flexible and come in a variety of lengths. There are many for sale on the Internet, sold as “blocking wires” for knitters. However, the more economical way to go (what I use) is stainless steel welder’s rods that can also be found on the Internet and in some hardware/welding supply stores for a fraction of the cost.

   String and dental floss -
   An even more economical way to block your items is with a string or even, dental floss. Here is a wonderful tutorial on how to block with string.

   Pins -
   Always use rustproof, stainless steel straight pins for blocking your knitted pieces.

Techniques: Steam, wet or dry blocking. Which do I use and how do I do it?

Blocking at different stages of a knitted item’s development require different techniques.

Dry -
I use dry blocking, almost always, when I want to take a progress photo. This is pretty much the only time I use this method. To use this method, you can use rods or just pins. Gently stretch your piece out on your blocking surface and pin in place.

Steam -
The steam method can be used for small projects, but I would not recommend it for larger pieces or for pieces that have been worn. This method uses a combination of heat and water to “set” the lace in a certain place. The reason I don’t recommend it for items that have been worn is that if there are any potential stains, grease, or that type of thing on the piece they will be permanently set in by using this method. This method is, however, handy for making a particular section of the lace item “behave” after wet blocking.

Wet -
This is the method I use most often and here are the basic steps.

1. Fill a clean sink, tub, or other container with cool clear water. If laundering or re-blocking a mild soap can be added and then you would need to repeat this step with another bath of clear clean rinse water.
2. Gently immerse your item in the water, making sure not to agitate the item.
3. Remove the item from the water and place in a colander to drain or place in between thick towels and apply pressure. It is very important not to agitate, squeeze or wring your item because it will begin to felt if you do this.
4. If the item is long, like a stole, scarf, or shawl, take it to a place where you can sit with it. There is no need to run your wires through your piece while hunched over your blocking surface. Begin to run your blocking wires along the outside edges through the yarn over’s or motifs.
5. Try to keep your “weaving” of your wires through the edge motifs consistent if possible. For example, go in one yarn over and come back out three down, repeat.
6. Once you have your wires in place, lay your piece on the blocking surface and begin to pin the edges down. I stick the pins on the inside of the wires, with the head of the pins at an angle away from the piece. This keeps the wires from popping up and over the pins.
7. When you finish pinning down one edge, move to the opposite side and pin down that edge. Continue this process until the entire piece is blocked or pinned down.
8. You will want to gently stretch your piece until it has equal and moderately tight tension throughout. Lace is amazingly strong and conformable during the blocking process, so don’t hesitate to stretch, pin, re-stretch, and re-pin until the piece looks the way you want it to.
9. If your piece has long straight edges you may want to use a yardstick or other straight edge of some sort to make sure the edges of your piece are as straight as possible. Keep in mind that however the piece dries it will stay until the next time you block it.
10. Allow the piece to dry. This can take an hour to a day or two depending on the piece, yarn used, etc.
11. Un-pin and enjoy!

Here are a few of the links that I found the most helpful when I was searching for information on this topic:

Knitpicks, Heart Strings, Blockheads, Eunny Knits

Popularity: 8% [?]

Why are “no stitches” charted? The answer to this, basically, is that if you are reading from a chart and you are also “reading” your knitting as you go, you want things to line up properly. Ok, so why doesn’t the chart reduce in size from the outside like my knitting does? The answer is that your knitting is not really decreasing from the outside edges. But, rather, it is reducing from where there is a decrease without a corresponding increase. Let me try to demonstrate. Below are two sample charts. The first is a chart drawn without the “no stitches” charted.

The knitting chart above is drawn without the “no stitch” squares. If you were to knit this sample, (please feel free to do so) this is an accurate depiction of how your finished knitted sample would “look”. However, if you were to try to knit from this chart, when you got to row 7 you would knit 2, knit 2 together, and yarn over exactly in the same place you had been before. These four stitches and the yarn over on your knitted piece do not actually move one stitch toward the center. So why do the rows get smaller and smaller toward the point of the sample?

Beginning with row seven, do you see the decrease symbols toward the center? These decreases do not have increases that go along with them. Therefore, this is actually where your pattern is “coming together” or decreasing toward the center.

Now take a look at the chart below.

This chart is drawn with the decreasing of stitches where they actually occur. In this chart, the beginning four stitches we discussed above all line up, as they should, on every row. They should also “line up” on your knitted piece. The decreases are happening within the knitted piece itself. To accommodate for the reduced number of stitches on each row as you move up the chart the stitches are charted as “no stitches”. Each row as you go up the chart has two less stitches in it, therefore the “no stitch” space gets larger toward the top of the chart.

So the conclusion to all of this is that a “no stitch” on a knitting chart means exactly what it sounds like. Where you see a No Stitch charted, skip over it and move on down the row, knitting only the stitches that are actually there.

Try it on the sample above. Cast on 25 stitches. Knit three rows of garter stitch and then begin the chart. On the even rows knit 5, purl 15, knit 5. Follow the charts and see if you can “read” what is happening in your knitted piece as you progress.

Enjoy.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Sarah, of the Front Porch Swing, has come up with a an interesting “new” technique for knitting in the round and still being able to place additional colors within your knitted piece. Somewhat like intarsia, but not… It is an interesting technique and although I haven’t tried it yet, it looks like it has loads of possibilities. Check it out and let me know what you think.

Popularity: 3% [?]

One of the members on the Secret of the Stole KAL group asked about taking better photos of their knitting. Mr. K is a photographer so it never really was something I had to think about. However, I did find this photography lesson on the Daily Chum to be very informative.

Another helpful little thing I found while surfing this morning was this nifty little chart.  Download it and take it with you when you are yarn shopping.  Or, basically just keep it in your purse or wallet, because who is not always yarn shopping?  I only wish I had found this chart in time to post for those attending Rhinebeck this weekend.

Popularity: 3% [?]

The fact that I am a self professed enabler of the highest caliper is once again proven by this Secret of the Stole inspired video. Some of the members of the group needed a visual demonstration of how beads are placed on a knitted piece using the crochet hook method. Thanks to another member, Ivy, we now have a super video to show us all how it is done. My favorite part of enabling is watching others develop their talents that are just waiting to come out of the box. Thanks, Ivy!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh2IVe416pc[/youtube]

Popularity: 2% [?]

Has anyone noticed that the Knitting Daily emails lately are beginning to look a lot like the Lion Brand emails? Basically not like blog posts anymore and more like ADVERTISEMENTS! What happened to the interaction with the subscribers that was going on in the beginning. Knitting Daily, in my opinion, started out as a really interesting list that was offering tips and a free pattern every so often, along with long commentary from the host, Sandi Wiseheart, on new techniques. Now it has become just another way for Interweave Knits to fill my inbox with advertisements for their magazines, most of which I already subscribe to anyway.

A site that does offer fantastic, practical and ad-free technical knitting instruction is TECHknitting . This blog is amazing to me. In the spirit of Elizabeth Zimmerman, Techknitter (I don’t know her/his real name) is a virtual encyclopedia of tips and tricks for your knitting process and offers all this knowledge to the reader for free. The explanations are in depth and the graphics are fantastic. If you haven’t checked this site out, I recommend that you do it when you have time to spend reading and taking notes (or at least printing).

Ever wonder how to do bust darts in your knitting? I found this blog post a while back and thought I would share it with you. Enjoy.

Popularity: 3% [?]